Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Madhuca longifolia (Mahua!!)
Closures are necessary. Especially when you go to a Jharkhand village one fine Sunday, have an awesome reception, understand what a well means for a village, talk about how the land has changed their lives over the years- taking away of farmland from tribals at as low as Rs. 1, meet the survivor of last week’s cock fight, enjoy tea, see hadia and chullu ( for the uninitiated: local liquor) being brewed in practically every home and promise you’ll write a CD of the umpteen pictures you have clicked and personally deliver it before the end of the week (not to forget the mental note about writing a blog about it).

This was some three years back. The CD was never compiled and the blog never written. The guy from the village who works in the Pharmacy department at BIT bumps into you often enough to remind you of the broken promise but you always manage to console yourself that the promise has not really been broken only extended. Now as you sit numbering your days in BIT closure, as I said, is necessary.

Baijnath was courteous enough to let us into his house and not only answer our queries about neem and cowdung as preservatives or what he did with his DVD player but explain in excruciating detail how Chullu (or Mahua) is made.

Step 1. Mahua flowers are collected in wats and a few Gur ( whatsitcalled in Angrezi? Jaggery?) pieces are thrown in. The Mahua and Gur get acquainted over a period of eight days. The sweet smell of fermentation announces that the mixture is now ready for the next stage.


Step 2- A big fire is prepared in the chulah every Sunday and a complex apparatus with beautiful simplicity is set up. It has three basic parts-
1. The bottom most part is an aluminium matka that contains the fermented mixture and is in contact with the heat.
2. Above this rests the perforated earthen matka that has hidden in its belly a smaller earthen matka resting on three projections at the bottom.
3. On the top is a simple pot containing cool water.

Here is how it works- The heat acts on the fermented mix allowing intoxicating vapors to evaporate. This is mahua in its nascent state. It wiggles-waggles through the perforation on the base of the second pot, touches the cool base of the cold water container and mahua in its liquid form is born. Throughout the day the fire burns and drop by drop the liquor pot gets filled.

In the evening, the precious pot is taken out and all family members (male??) share it. How does it taste? You confidently approach the innocent looking water like substance. The taste eludes the taste buds and you work hard on figuring it out. A lot of sips later, when the curiosity about the taste still lingers in the air it hits you much like nothing else and then boom!!!


As the sun goes down the village forgets about how their settlement is slowly being swallowed. The real estate developer is building hideous row houses where once wheat grew, BIT wants a new building somewhere there, and young lads have been looking for jobs in the city for sometime now. But while the boom lasts they can forget about it. Morning punches them doubly in the face- life and mahua join hands. They sit on their thresholds waiting for the headache to pass only to be replaced by other ones.
Next: Why does the code book say-“ thou shalt not build on farmland or wetland” but they do, they do and they do……………………….

6 comments:

ONE said...

enlightening.. always wondered how mahua is made..
and as usual, beautifully worded..

It's a talent - being able to write in a narrative style that's not only gripping but elegant.. keep it coming :)

Aditya said...

Looking forward to the well blog next. How life revolves around the village well that is.

Avinash said...

Madhuca Longifolia and Mahua - Arent they two different worlds ? - two worlds perhaps crashing into each other - who will get crushed and who will survive we are yet to see...and there may be surprises.
As for me, for now i prefer the world of mahua.

Mahua is being in the heartland of narmada, the hills, in bilgaon for me. no electricity, sub beating down in the day time, paori (a local dialect of marathi), medha didi (yes medha patkar) endlessely talking to bilgaonese, the little school, riding on top of a jeep and oh what a different world this is feeling.

And pitch dark night, only kerosene lamps light at the tribal village elders home. I am friends with someone whose face i havent seen - his name is Shelya dia (dee-yaa: respected elder in paori) - And he has to give permission before you drink the mahua. "Ram Ram shelya dia" and he says "Ram Ram Ram ram Avinash bhai" and then you can drink. Sheep and ghais right next to me as i sip the "mirchi paani" - yes in bilgaon NBA bans mahua and all who drink therefore refer to it as Mirchi pani. This is followed with an accompaniement of jowari roti and the hottest ever subji - toor with chilli and salt all mashed up together. My ear starts smoking. The next morn, after all the mahua of the previous day, i have the best open-air shit i have ever had.

And here the country's entire debate is fomenting. Medha, the villagers, the state play out their ideologies. And here Anil bhai my friend because of whom i was there works with medha to build a small electricity system for the village to be owned an d operated by the village (which they dont do). The system gets washed out by the dam. ashutost gawarikar comes visits the village to make swades in which SRK had to have worked in NASA (in reality anil is a college drop out from kerala who runs in electrical shop). And here the VHP tries to talk to the tribal villagers and tell them they are hindu. And here I come in my search for god-knows-what.

How many worlds colliding? Madhuca Longifolia crashing against Mahua. What will change ? Will there sooner or later be Kingfisher Madhuca longifolia Flower beer ? or will it always be the three pan distillation ?

Avinash

ONE said...

woho!!! an entire blog post right here.. :D

Lioness said...

@ one : thanks.
@ aditya: kaam chal raha hai boss
@ avinash: thanks for sharing

Anonymous said...

had mahua on the week end must adddmit it was the as i was expecting ... may be did not have it enough quantity ... it is a strange trip .. it is not like any other liqur that i have had .... the sketch and photos were helpful to understand how is it made .