It all started over a casual conversation with a Ladakhi in a Bihari Cafe in Auroville.
Sonam Wangchuk is a lot of things. For starters, he inspired the character of Phunsok Wangdu in Three Idiots. And that is an impressive starter! I found myself eating fried noodles with him one evening near the beach in Auroville. I had spent two years living an idyllic life in Auroville (see posts below) and was internally itching for some new challenge. And when I paid close attention, this is what Sonam was talking about.
Four young men who had attended Secmol (http://www.secmol.org/index.php) had decided to open a solar earth construction business in Ladakh. Made perfect sense. They were looking for some architect to help out in this venture. I decided to give it a try.
Few months later, I was flying over my geography book. Imagination had never taken me beyond Himalayas. Turned out, I was missing out on a lot. Once the white peaks of the Himalayan range ends begins the land known as Third Pole, a name attributed to the long cold months this region has.
Once you get down at Leh, you don't know what makes you dizzy: the lack of oxygen or the breath taking beauty. Bright blue sky and brown barren earth. A painting with just two colours. Minimalism cannot possibly get better.
At Secmol, I was welcomed with a fresh glass of seabuckthorn juice and a cozy room. I slept the whole of the first day and let my body get acclimatized to the drastically new surroundings. Soon we began work. The guys were enthusiastic and motivated. They had grown up making earth buildings and so were in no need of technical expertise. I just helped with some drawings, some suggestions to organised the office and so on.
As is always true, life outside the office is infinitesimally more interesting. Staying at Secmol and interacting with young students was like a fresh shot of energy everyday. It was also educating to see an totally off grid school with students managing electricity, water, garbage, food and classroom activities. My favourite was the waterless ladakhi toilet. I took back inspirations worth a lifetime from this! It was difficult to get up at 5 each day for the yoga classes but looking back I had a lot of fun.
I had the chance to visit the bright blue Pangong lake, cross Chang-la, stay with a Ladakhi family, drink yak milk and eat dried yak meat (yeah, I was vegan before i went there). The pink salty butter tea was my favourite and no day began without a warm glass. Also of interest were remote monasteries and desolate palaces, turquoise Indus and small everyday treks to work and back. Ladakhi people are ever welcoming, pleasant to talk to and full of wisdom.
Time passed like an arrow and soon it was time to leave. I have all intentions of going back soon, hopefully on a bicycle. Owing to rapid tourism, the region is also facing its share of difficulties. The sustainable way of life and local wisdom stands threatened with the new fast moving four wheel drives and concrete house. I hope the old Ladakh wins and reinvents itself on its own terms. It is any day a better place!
Sonam Wangchuk is a lot of things. For starters, he inspired the character of Phunsok Wangdu in Three Idiots. And that is an impressive starter! I found myself eating fried noodles with him one evening near the beach in Auroville. I had spent two years living an idyllic life in Auroville (see posts below) and was internally itching for some new challenge. And when I paid close attention, this is what Sonam was talking about.
Four young men who had attended Secmol (http://www.secmol.org/index.php) had decided to open a solar earth construction business in Ladakh. Made perfect sense. They were looking for some architect to help out in this venture. I decided to give it a try.
Few months later, I was flying over my geography book. Imagination had never taken me beyond Himalayas. Turned out, I was missing out on a lot. Once the white peaks of the Himalayan range ends begins the land known as Third Pole, a name attributed to the long cold months this region has.
Once you get down at Leh, you don't know what makes you dizzy: the lack of oxygen or the breath taking beauty. Bright blue sky and brown barren earth. A painting with just two colours. Minimalism cannot possibly get better.
At Secmol, I was welcomed with a fresh glass of seabuckthorn juice and a cozy room. I slept the whole of the first day and let my body get acclimatized to the drastically new surroundings. Soon we began work. The guys were enthusiastic and motivated. They had grown up making earth buildings and so were in no need of technical expertise. I just helped with some drawings, some suggestions to organised the office and so on.
As is always true, life outside the office is infinitesimally more interesting. Staying at Secmol and interacting with young students was like a fresh shot of energy everyday. It was also educating to see an totally off grid school with students managing electricity, water, garbage, food and classroom activities. My favourite was the waterless ladakhi toilet. I took back inspirations worth a lifetime from this! It was difficult to get up at 5 each day for the yoga classes but looking back I had a lot of fun.
I had the chance to visit the bright blue Pangong lake, cross Chang-la, stay with a Ladakhi family, drink yak milk and eat dried yak meat (yeah, I was vegan before i went there). The pink salty butter tea was my favourite and no day began without a warm glass. Also of interest were remote monasteries and desolate palaces, turquoise Indus and small everyday treks to work and back. Ladakhi people are ever welcoming, pleasant to talk to and full of wisdom.
Time passed like an arrow and soon it was time to leave. I have all intentions of going back soon, hopefully on a bicycle. Owing to rapid tourism, the region is also facing its share of difficulties. The sustainable way of life and local wisdom stands threatened with the new fast moving four wheel drives and concrete house. I hope the old Ladakh wins and reinvents itself on its own terms. It is any day a better place!
1 comment:
You have always amazed me how you have managed to travel from pillar to post based only out of your expertise and your knack to learn and adapt.You are a true inspiration.
Much love,
Audi.
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